I wake just before 8 am to the sound of steady rain. The house is slightly darker than usual and the air in the room is cool and fresh. I check the thermometer which shows an outdoor temperature of 25.8 degrees Celcius; inside the temperature reads 27.8 degrees.
With the fan blowing on me from the foot of the bed I’m very comfortable snuggled up under a light blanket.
The treetops outside of our bedroom window are a brilliant color of green. They are lush and full of life.
Rainy season is officially upon us!
One month ago this scene looked a lot different.
The hills surrounding our home were dried up and brown. When Gordon and I woke at six or seven in the morning the air was already thick, hot and humid.
In Nicaragua April and May are the hottest, driest months of the year. This time of year is our least favorite.
In the last couple of months we’ve seen daytime temperatures reach as high as 38 degrees Celsius. Many nights when we were ready to go to bed the temperature inside the house was still 31 degrees Celcius.
This heat, with no wind, day after day was becoming oppressive.
It’s during this time of year that we are extremely grateful to have air conditioning and we’re not bothered by the added electricity costs. To have relief from the heat and get a restful night’s sleep is well worth the extra $20 or $30 USD per month we have to spend.
WHAT TO EXPECT WITH A NICARAGUAN RAINY SEASON
Before moving to Nicaragua we had no idea what to expect of rainy season. We had visions of of heavy rainfall all day every day for months.
“Do we need to pack rain coats?”
“Should I buy rubber boots?”
Regardless of whether you’re moving here or just planning a visit we can now tell you from experience that rain coats and rubber boots aren’t necessary. A large umbrella might be a good idea though. And you’ll most definitely want to have a pair of waterproof flip flops or sandals.
An average day in rainy season starts a little cooler and overcast at dawn. By mid morning the clouds have usually burned off and the rest of the day is sunny and beach worthy until at least late afternoon.
When the rains do come it’s usually at night with real intensity. Sometimes the storm ends as quickly as it began; but other times the rain continues to fall all night long.
The first month of rainy season (June) and last month (October) are the rainiest months of the season. During these months rains may come daily and occasionally continue all day long. Typically during the months of July and August it only rains every three or four days and again, mainly in the evening.
We really like rainy season. After going five or six months without a single drop of rain there is nothing better than that first rainfall.
It’s amazing to witness the transformation as the landscape goes from an ugly brown to beautiful green in just a couple weeks.
There are however, a few minor downsides that come with rainy season.
For starters power outages are quite common at the beginning of rainy season. They usually happen at night. No power means no fan or air conditioning, which makes for a very uncomfortable night’s sleep.
We also see an increase in the amount of bugs, mosquitoes and house flies during this time.
Another slight annoyance that comes with rainy season is the mud, that evidently gets tracked into the house.
Without a dryer keeping up on laundry during rainy season can challenging.
Overall, the few annoyances that come with rainy season definitely outweigh the good.
Bottom line, when I surveyed the members of the San Juan del Sur Friends & Neighbours Facebook group asking if they liked rainy season the results did not surprise me.
Every single person that answered gave a thumbs up to rainy season.
Every 90 days we need to renew our Nicaraguan tourist visa. We have been living in Nicaragua for the last 4.5 years as perpetual tourists. These quarterly junkets to the border are uneventful and rather tedious. The alternative is to leave our paradise so we don’t complain too much.
An obvious question is, “Why don’t we have residency?” The short answer is, “We don’t qualify.” The long answer would significantly side track this post, so we will get to that another time.
Step by Step Instructions on How to Renew Your Nicaraguan Tourist Visa
When you enter Nicaragua from Canada, the USA or many other countries you automatically receive a 90 day tourist visa. This visa covers all CA4 countries. These countries include Nicaragua, Guatemala, Honduras and El Salvador.
If you want to stay in Nicaragua longer than 90 days you have a few options.
Apply for residency, apply for an extension of up to 90 days or leave the CA4 and return with a shiny new 90 day tourist visa. The details of the first two options are extensive, so we will cover them in a separate post.
Today we will only discuss the infamous border run to Costa Rica.
We ride my trusty steed and park it at this store to be watched ($2 USD once you return) by one of the many border “helpers”. Those without a vehicle can use the plethora of taxis and busses running back and forth to the border. They are easy to find and provide a cheap mode of transport.
Nicaragua has a new immigration office. The new office is easy to find (directly in front of the entrance gate) and you no longer need to complete any paper work to exit the country. You will need to pay a $1 USD tax to the city of Peñas Blancas at the entrance to the building. Once inside you wait your turn to see an officer, pay your $2 USD departure tax and get stamped out of Nicaragua.
From here you walk a couple hundred meters to the check point in the area we refer to as “no man’s land”. It is just past the vehicle fumigation station. A representative from Nicaragua will check to see you have an exit stamp in your passport. Then 20 meters later a Costa Rican representative will repeat the process. Be friendly because you will be back here repeating this process in reverse very shortly.
Entering Costa Rica
200 meters further down the road you will find the Costa Rican Immigration office. The line to enter the country is on the right side of the building. The most important thing is you will need proof of onward travel. We have done this enough times to fill a passport and twice we were not asked. You can buy an open ended (12 month expiry) bus ticket from a vendor on site for $20 USD. You can also show a flight itinerary leaving Costa Rica (not Nicaragua) within the next 90 days.
You complete a small exit form and get into line to be stamped into Costa Rica. There is no entrance fee. Extremely welcoming as long as you can prove you are leaving soon.
Leaving Costa Rica
Enjoy a little stroll into Costa Rica but don’t enjoy it too much. Less than 50 meters down the road on your left you will find a few not especially official looking offices to pay your $8 USD Costa Rican exit tax. Once you have your receipt turn around and walk back to the Costa Rican Immigration Office. Just make sure you go to the opposite side this time.
Obtain another immigration form and complete it before stepping up to the officer. They will need to see your form, passport and exit tax receipt. Once you are stamped out of Costa Rica start walking back to “no man’s land”.
Going Back Home to Nicaragua
The small, white building in the above photo is the check point at “no man’s land”. The Costa Rican official will check to see that you have stamped out of Costa Rica. The Nicaraguan official will do the same with one addition. This is the place where we often hear about the “shakedown”. Often the officer will say you need to be out of Nicaragua 3 hours before returning. First of all this is not true and they will not be able to show you any regulation. Secondly your passport is not time stamped so the whole thing is ridiculous and a ploy to inconvenience you just enough to pay a bribe.
Just remember these are government officials and they are in control. To get angry, loud or demanding is considered disrespectful and you may have a really long day.
I have handled this a few different ways that were all successful but took varying amounts of time.
- Once I sat cross legged beside the officer and asked him to tell me when the three hours was up. (5 Minutes)
- A couple of times I just kept repeating “I don’t like Costa Rica that’s why I live in Nicaragua. Why would I go to Costa Rica when I love Nicaragua. (2 Minutes)
- Once I said “We do this dance every 90 days. Sometimes we dance for five minutes and sometimes you don’t want to dance at all. How long would you like to dance today”. Then I took up position to lead a Waltz. (Zero Minutes)
Each time it seems like less of an issue. In fact, on our last border run the officer waved us to the front and said welcome as he shook our hands and sent us on our way.
On the way back to the Nicaraguan Immigration office you will have lots of opportunities to grab a drink or a snack. You can also stop at the duty free stores to stock up on inexpensive wine or any other vice you may have. The duty free shops are next to the old immigration office which is 150 meters east of the new office. If you aren’t looking for them you won’t see them which would be a crying shame.
Renewing Your Tourist Visa
Now that you have your bounty from duty free walk over to the Nicaraguan Immigration office. You will need to pay another $1 USD tax to Peñas Blancas at the door. We always show our receipt from earlier in the day and half the time they accept it.
You do not need to complete any paperwork to enter Nicaragua but you do have to pay $12 USD for a 90 day tourist visa. The officer may ask things like where are you staying, how long you are staying, what is your profession, etc. Our passports are littered with Costa Rican and Nicaraguan stamps so they know we are living in Nicaragua. They sometimes ask if we are working in Nicaragua and how we support ourselves.
Since the new Immigration office opened, the officers have been quite friendly and professional. Sometimes they recognize us, smile and reach over the glass to shake hands.
This is always a the best part for us. We have our wine and more importantly another 90 days in paradise with a fresh tourist visa. We celebrate by stopping for an ice cold Toña at the little restaurant/store where we park our vehicle. Door to door round trip including our duty free stop and Toña pitstop is usually takes just over 3 hours.
Tips for First Timers
We have done border runs so many times that it is easy and relatively stress free. If you have never been to the border to renew your tourist visa the experience can be confusing and a little stressful. There are very few signs and no way to know where you need to go next.
We encourage first timers to post on the Expats in San Juan del Sur Facebook group asking if someone with experience is going around the same date. You can offer to pay for gas or lunch or something in exchange for their guidance on the trip.
Once you have completed your first border run you will be ready to help out the next newbie that needs some help.